Deadly Truth Your Hairstylist Won't Tell You: The Silent Killer Lurking in Your...
What if the hair extensions you’re wearing could be slowly harming your health? Shocking new research reveals the hidden dangers lurking in synthetic braids—a popular choice for millions of Black women. But don’t worry, we’re about to uncover the truth and show you how to protect yourself.
Introduction:
For decades, synthetic braids and hair extensions have been a beloved option for Black women. These styles offer versatility, convenience, and the ability to protect natural hair from damage. However, mounting evidence suggests that these synthetic hair products may expose users to significant health risks, including the potential for cancer-causing chemicals. With millions of Black women regularly using synthetic braids, it’s essential to understand the full scope of these dangers, the other cancer-causing agents commonly found in Black hair products, and related health concerns such as fibroids.
The Global Prevalence of Synthetic Hair Use
The global hair extension and wig market, which includes synthetic braids, is projected to surpass $19.12 billion by 2028. Among the largest consumer groups in this industry are Black women, who rely on these products to achieve various protective styles. In the U.S., 34% of adult Black women have reported wearing synthetic braids within the last three years, equating to more than 5.5 million women. The prevalence of synthetic braids is not limited to adult women; preteens and teenagers also frequently use these styles, exposing them to potential long-term health risks.
Despite their popularity, synthetic hair products are coming under increased scrutiny due to the toxic chemicals they may contain, including known carcinogens like acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride.
Vulnerable Braid Styles
Box Braids
- Individual plaits that are usually divided into square-shaped sections. They can vary in size (small, medium, or large) and length (short, mid-back, waist-length).
- Often worn with added synthetic or natural hair for length and volume.
- Can be styled in buns, ponytails, or left down.
Cornrows
- Braids that are braided very close to the scalp, in rows. The pattern can be simple straight rows or intricate designs like zigzags, swirls, or curves.
- This style is protective and low-maintenance.
- Can be worn alone or as a base for wigs, weaves, or crochet braids.
Knotless Braids
- A variation of box braids where the braid starts with the natural hair, and additional hair is gradually added for a smoother, more natural look.
- This method reduces tension on the scalp, making it more comfortable and less damaging than traditional box braids.
Fulani Braids
- A style inspired by the Fulani people of West Africa, featuring a mixture of cornrows in the front, often adorned with beads, and box braids or loose hair at the back.
- Fulani braids often have a signature braid down the center of the head with beads or cuffs for decoration.
Goddess Braids
- Similar to cornrows but much larger and thicker. These braids are usually done in intricate patterns and are less time-consuming to install than smaller braids.
- Can be styled into updos, ponytails, or left to hang down.
Senegalese Twists
- Twists created by using two strands of hair twisted around each other. Typically, synthetic hair is added to achieve longer lengths and a sleeker finish.
- They provide a smooth, rope-like appearance and are light and easy to style.
Marley Twists
- Twists made with Marley hair, a type of synthetic hair that mimics the texture of natural hair. The texture gives these twists a more natural, fuller look.
- Often worn thick and chunky, they can be styled into buns, updos, or left long.
Havana Twists
- Similar to Marley twists but usually larger and done with Havana hair, which is softer and lighter.
- These twists offer a fuller, voluminous appearance and are often worn long.
Micro Braids
- Extremely small braids that can take hours to install. They are often done with added hair for length and volume.
- Once installed, micro braids can be styled into various updos, ponytails, or left loose, giving the look of free-flowing hair.
Crochet Braids
- Hair is cornrowed, and then extensions (typically curly or wavy hair) are crocheted into the braids with a latch hook.
- This style is quick to install and offers a lot of versatility in the types of curls, waves, or braids that can be used.
Lemonade Braids
- Popularized by Beyoncé, these are side-swept cornrows, usually braided in small sections that start at the hairline and go in one direction.
- They can be worn long and sleek or short and curved around the head.
Ghana Braids (Banana Braids)
- Similar to cornrows but thicker and more defined, often starting small and gradually becoming larger. These braids are designed to look more raised from the scalp.
- Can be styled in various shapes, like zigzags or curves, and are often worn in an updo or ponytail.
Feed-in Braids
- A method used for cornrows or box braids where hair is gradually added to the braid, creating a more natural and seamless appearance.
- The result is less tension on the scalp and a smoother, more flexible braid.
Tree Braids
- A combination of braiding and weaving where hair is cornrowed, and extensions are added, leaving parts of the extensions out to mimic the look of loose, natural hair.
- It’s a great style for achieving the look of free-flowing hair with the protection of braids.
The Chemical Composition of Synthetic Hair: Hidden Dangers
At the heart of the issue are synthetic materials, particularly Kanekalon, a modacrylic fiber widely used in synthetic braids. These fibers contain harmful chemicals such as:
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Acrylonitrile: This chemical is classified as a probable human carcinogen by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Studies have linked acrylonitrile to an increased risk of various cancers, including lung, colon, and breast cancer. In synthetic braids, acrylonitrile can be absorbed through the scalp and skin, especially when the braids are worn for prolonged periods. Even more alarming, when synthetic braids are exposed to heat—whether from sealing the braids or during styling—acrylonitrile can be released into the air, increasing the risk of inhalation.
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Vinyl Chloride: Known as a potent carcinogen, vinyl chloride has been linked to a range of cancers, including liver, brain, and lung cancers. The National Cancer Institute warns of vinyl chloride’s direct connection to both rare and common forms of cancer. This chemical is also commonly found in PVC plastic and other industrial products, but its presence in synthetic hair products introduces a significant risk for Black women who frequently use these extensions.
Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) and Increased Health Risks
Another group of chemicals found in synthetic hair products are volatile organic compounds (VOCs). VOCs are gases emitted by certain chemicals and can be released when synthetic braids are heated during styling, sealing, or even everyday use. VOCs have been shown to exacerbate asthma and respiratory issues, which are already prevalent within the Black community. According to the American Lung Association, Black women are nearly three times as likely to die from asthma as white women, and exposure to VOCs can worsen these respiratory conditions.
Additional Cancer-Causing Agents Found in Black Hair Products
Synthetic hair products aren’t the only culprits when it comes to harmful chemicals. Many products marketed specifically to Black women, including relaxers, shampoos, and conditioners, have also been found to contain toxic ingredients. Studies have revealed that:
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Endocrine Disruptors: These chemicals interfere with the body’s hormone systems and can contribute to a wide range of health problems, including cancers, reproductive issues, and developmental disorders. Hair relaxers, often used to chemically straighten hair, have been found to contain high levels of endocrine disruptors like phthalates, parabens, and bisphenol A (BPA). These chemicals mimic hormones and can increase the risk of hormone-sensitive cancers, including breast cancer.
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Formaldehyde: Found in some hair smoothing treatments, formaldehyde is a known carcinogen. Repeated exposure to formaldehyde has been linked to nasopharyngeal cancer and leukemia. The risk is particularly high when heat is applied during hair treatments, as the formaldehyde can be released into the air and inhaled by both the person receiving the treatment and the stylist.
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Parabens: Parabens are preservatives used in many cosmetic and hair care products, including shampoos and conditioners. These chemicals have been shown to mimic estrogen, a hormone involved in the development of breast cancer. A 2016 study published in the Journal of Applied Toxicology found parabens in the tissue of breast cancer patients, leading researchers to conclude that these chemicals may increase the risk of cancer, particularly in Black women who use products containing parabens more frequently.
Fibroids: A Common Health Concern Among Black Women
In addition to the risks posed by cancer-causing agents, another significant health concern for Black women is the increased prevalence of uterine fibroids. Fibroids are non-cancerous growths that develop in the uterus and can cause pain, heavy bleeding, and reproductive complications. Research has shown that Black women are three times more likely to develop fibroids than white women, and many scientists are investigating the link between environmental toxins, including chemicals found in hair products, and the development of fibroids.
A study published in the American Journal of Epidemiology in 2012 found that frequent use of hair relaxers was associated with a higher risk of developing fibroids. The researchers hypothesized that the endocrine-disrupting chemicals found in these products may contribute to hormonal imbalances that fuel the growth of fibroids. Given that fibroids disproportionately affect Black women, this is a serious public health issue that deserves more attention.
The Regulatory Gap and Industry Inaction
One of the most troubling aspects of this issue is the lack of regulation surrounding the chemicals used in beauty products marketed to Black women. While the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates cosmetics, there are significant loopholes that allow harmful chemicals to remain in products. The Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA), which governs the use of chemicals in consumer goods, does not provide sufficient protection for consumers when it comes to hair products.
Only five U.S. states—Delaware, Georgia, Iowa, West Virginia, and New York—have enacted bans on the use of flame retardants in hair products, which are often found in synthetic hair. On the federal level, there is no comprehensive ban on the use of flame retardants, leaving millions of Black women vulnerable to exposure. Furthermore, many hair products marketed to Black women are imported, and the lack of uniform safety standards allows these products to enter the market without rigorous testing for health risks.
Steps Black Women Can Take to Protect Themselves
While the lack of regulation is a serious issue, there are steps Black women can take to reduce their exposure to harmful chemicals:
- Choose Human Hair Extensions: Human hair extensions are a safer alternative to synthetic braids, as they do not contain the same toxic chemicals.
- Limit Heat Exposure: If you must use synthetic braids, avoid applying heat to seal or style them, as this can release harmful VOCs.
- Use Natural Hair Products: Opt for hair care products that are free of parabens, phthalates, and other endocrine-disrupting chemicals. Look for products that are labeled as organic or free of synthetic ingredients.
- Support Safer Product Legislation: Advocate for stronger regulation of beauty products, particularly those marketed to Black women. By supporting legislation that bans harmful chemicals in cosmetics, you can help create a safer beauty industry for all.
Conclusion:
The use of synthetic braids and other hair products marketed to Black women comes with significant health risks. From exposure to carcinogens like acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride to the endocrine-disrupting chemicals found in relaxers and shampoos, these products pose a serious threat to the health of Black women. The increased risk of fibroids, breast cancer, and respiratory issues only underscores the need for better regulation and greater awareness.
As consumers, Black women deserve to know the truth about the products they use. By staying informed, advocating for stronger regulations, and making safer choices, it’s possible to protect both beauty and health. The next time you consider using synthetic braids or relaxers, ask yourself: Is it worth the risk?
References:
- Environmental Protection Agency. (2020). Acrylonitrile Hazard Summary.
- National Cancer Institute. (2018). Vinyl Chloride and Cancer Risk.
- Journal of Applied Toxicology. (2016). Parabens and Breast Cancer: Exploring the Link.
- American Journal of Epidemiology. (2012). Hair Relaxers and Uterine Fibroids Among African-American Women.
- American Lung Association. (2021). Disparities in Asthma Rates Among Black Women.
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