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      Everyone Else's Hair is growing...Are Hair Grease, Pomades the reason yours is not?

      Everyone Else's Hair is growing...Are Hair Grease, Pomades the reason yours is not?

      Written by: Dr. Brenda Davis

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      Published on

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      Time to read 6 min

      Hair Grease on Your Natural Hair: Problem or Benefit?

      You might be thinking, "Is hair grease good or bad for my natural hair?" Well, you're not alone. This question has been a hot topic in the natural hair community for years. But don't worry, we're about to dive deep into this greasy subject and uncover the truth.

      Picture this: A young girl, sitting in front of her mother, bracing herself for the weekly hair combing routine. The comb makes contact, and... Pop! Spank! Ouch! Sound familiar? If you're nodding your head, you're probably reliving your own childhood hair trauma. But what if I told you that this common experience holds the key to understanding the role of hair grease in natural hair care?

      Now, you might be wondering, "What does childhood hair combing have to do with hair grease?" Well, buckle up, because we're about to take a journey through time, science, and personal experience to answer that question and more.

      The Childhood Hair Saga: A Greasy Tale

      Let me take you back to my childhood. My hair was thick, soft, and intensely curly - a beautiful crown that my grandmother lovingly called "tender headed." But with great hair comes great responsibility, and in my case, that meant weekly battles with the comb and brush.

      Every weekend, my mother and I would approach the detangling process with a mix of determination and dread. As soon as the comb touched my hair, the waterworks would start. It was an all-out war - my hair versus the comb!

      But here's where it gets interesting. To minimize these painful encounters, my mother only combed my hair once a week and washed it about once a month. After each wash, she'd apply a thick layer of hair grease to my scalp. But what about the rest of the week?

      The answer: more grease and water!

      Now, you might be thinking, "Isn't that too much grease?" Well, hold that thought. We're about to dive into the method behind this seemingly madness.

      The Grease and Water Method: A Childhood Hair Savior?

      Throughout the week, my mother would liberally apply grease and water to my hair. Her goal? To achieve soft, perfectly defined curls and waves that looked freshly styled. But here's the kicker - no sooner had she finished combing, my rebellious locks would revert and mat into knots overnight.

      By the next day, it looked as if my hair had never seen a comb or brush! To tame my defiant tresses, my mother would friction small amounts of grease and water into my hair daily. I'd sleep with a nylon stocking cap to set the style. This grease and water routine was our go-to all week long until the next full wash day arrived.

      As a child, I loved this low-maintenance regimen. It required minimal manipulation, kept my hair soft and moisturized, and beautifully amplified my natural curl pattern. No painful tugging required! It was a dream come true for a tender-headed child.

      But now you're probably wondering, "Is this constant greasing actually good for black hair and scalps?" That's an excellent question, and it's exactly what we're going to explore next.

      The Science Behind Natural Oils: Your Hair's Best Friend?

      Fast forward to today, and I'm now a natural hair care professional. With this expertise, I understand that black hair inherently needs generous amounts of moisture and oil to stay lubricated and healthy. But why?

      Our scalps naturally produce an oil called sebum. This oil is critical for keeping thick, coiled hair strands from becoming dry and brittle. Sebum moisturizes our hair from root to tip, creates the ideal environment for hair growth, and prevents itchy, irritated scalps.

      But here's the catch - many black women inadvertently disrupt the production of sebum through their hair care practices. According to black hair expert Dr. Ayesha Malik, activities like over-washing, excessive manipulation, heat styling, chemical relaxing, coloring, and using products with harsh detergents or alcohols strip away the scalp's natural lubricants faster than the body can reproduce them.

      Now, you might be thinking, "So, does this mean we should just leave our hair alone?" Not quite. If sebum oil isn't replenished consistently, it leaves hair extremely parched and vulnerable to damage such as thinning, shedding, and breakage. For those with chronically dehydrated strands, even the gentlest brushing and combing can feel unbearable.

      This is where adding supplemental oils becomes crucial. But before you reach for that tub of Blue Magic, there's something you need to know about petroleum-based greases.

      The Dark Side of Petroleum-Based Greases: A Hidden Danger?

      Remember that hair grease my mom used on my hair? Like many mass-marketed hair greases today, it contained petroleum and mineral oil. These ingredients feel ultra-moisturizing initially, but they can wreak havoc on hair and scalp health over time.

      You're probably wondering, "How can something that feels so good be so bad?" Well, here's the shocking truth: petroleum and mineral oils are occlusive. This means they create a suffocating film that blocks moisture from entering or exiting hair strands and follicles.

      Repeated applications essentially trap dirt and bacteria against the scalp and seal the hair cuticle completely to keep water out. This not only clogs hair follicles and pores to inhibit growth but also prevents the scalp's natural sebum production. The result? Strands become brittle and begin breaking as their protective lipid layer is stripped away.

      But wait, there's more! Common grease ingredients like mineral oil require strong detergents like sulfates to dissolve and remove. So grease encourages more frequent shampooing, which depletes moisture further. It's a vicious cycle that can leave your hair worse off in the long run.

      So, what's the solution? Don't worry, we're getting to that. But first, let's talk about some healthier, more hydrating alternatives.

      Natural Alternatives: The Key to Healthy, Hydrated Hair?

      For those trying to revive and grow out their natural hair texture, regular petroleum grease use is counterproductive. While water and oil are fundamental to hydrating black hair, consider using all-natural, non-comedogenic oils instead.

      You might be thinking, "But where do I start? There are so many options!" Don't worry, I've got you covered. Look for product formulas made with lightweight plant oils like grapeseed, jojoba, avocado, sweet almond, or coconut oil. These options sink in readily to nourish hair on a cellular level without blocking follicles, pores, or moisture absorption.

      But here's a word of caution: be mindful not to overload your hair with any oil, even natural ones. Excessive product build-up can still smother strands and prohibit moisture circulation. Your goal is to keep each hair strand supple and hydrated day-to-day, not product-coated and weighted down unnecessarily.

      Think of oils as sealants to lock in the hydration water-based products supply. With this approach, your hair will feel touchably soft while retaining healthy moisture levels overall.

      The Comeback of Hair Grease: A New Era?

      Now, you might be wondering, "Is hair grease making a comeback?" The answer is yes, but with a twist. Modern hair care companies are reimagining traditional hair grease, creating petroleum-free, all-natural alternatives that provide the benefits of grease without the drawbacks.

      These new-age greases often incorporate ingredients like chebe powder, a traditional African hair treatment known for its exceptional repair benefits. Loaded with vitamins, minerals, and proteins, chebe oil is revered for reversing breakage and stimulating quicker growth.

      But remember, even with these improved formulas, moderation is key. The goal is to nurture your hair, not weigh it down.

      The Verdict: To Grease or Not to Grease?

      So, after all this, you're probably wondering, "What's the bottom line? Should I use hair grease or not?"

      Here's the thing: if your priority is simply amplifying and setting your curls weekly like my childhood regimen, traditional petroleum hair grease remains an accessible option. But proceed mindfully, doing occasional clarifying washes to prevent excessive product buildup.

      However, if your goal is to nurture hair growth by maintaining scalp health and hydration, consider switching to natural oil alternatives. When used judiciously as finishing sealants, plant-based oils enhance softness, definition, and moisture absorption without compromising follicles.

      Remember, everyone's hair is different. What works for one person might not work for another. It's always a good idea to consult a certified trichologist or natural hair stylist for personalized product recommendations.

      In the end, the key to healthy, beautiful natural hair isn't about following trends or sticking to tradition. It's about understanding your hair's unique needs and finding the right balance of moisture, oil, and care. So, whether you choose to grease or not to grease, make sure you're making an informed decision that's best for your hair.

      Now, armed with this knowledge, are you ready to embark on your own hair care journey? Remember, every strand tells a story. What will yours be?

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