Natural Hair News

There are several other aspects of hair-handling that you might not even pay attention to, that can make a big difference in the quality of your hair/ends. Become aware of how you are handling your hair (or not handling it). Awareness is the first step. 

Day-to-day handling is where most of the damage occurs. 

Is your hair long enough to get caught under coat collars or under shoulder straps (for Messenger bags, back pack, etc)? If so, move your hair before putting on that bag. 

Does your hair whip in the wind? Wind knots up hair. Knots damage length. Damaged length causes more splits. Eventually the damaged length splits. Restrain your hair when you are going to be in a lot of wind.

Washing your hair. Do you pile your hair on top of your head when you shampoo? This creates MANY opportunities for splits. Shampoo really only needs to be applied to your roots. That's where the grease/oil is. Personally, I condition the length of my hair, apply shampoo to my scalp (down to ears), rinse, then apply conditioner again, rinse. This is called CWC (Condition Wash Condition). All the while, the length of my hair just hangs down my back. 

When you dry your hair, do you scrub your scalp with a towel? It feels great, but it will rip, strip, pop, snap and fry your hair in no time! Many of us use some sort of a turbie type towel/turban for drying our hair. Others put a towel on their back and let the hair drip onto the towel. 

Do you blow dry your hair? The heat and the wind created by the blowfryer (no that isn't a typo) really damages hair, too. Any heat styling tool can potentially damage hair. If you feel you must use them, keep the temperature low and exposure time to your hair short.

How often do you shampoo? Regardless of HOW you shampoo, how OFTEN do you do it? Many of us have found that 2-3 shampooings per week is sufficient. It takes a few weeks to train your scalp to have fewer washings, but it helps protect the ends. Not everyone has success with fewer shampooings, though.

Do you use conditioner or a cream rinse when you shampoo? My personal belief is, if you want long hair you need to condition it EVERY time you shampoo. If nothing else, it helps detangle my hair. You also might consider using a leave in conditioner, especially one that helps detangle (and gives “slip”). 

You can oil the length of your hair daily. Many long hairs do this. They put a small drop in the palm of their hand, rub their hands together and lightly apply the oil to the ends only of the hair. There is an abundance of oils that you can use, some are quite exotic. Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) is probably the most common, but there is a long list of oils everyone has tried and ones that each person likes/doesn’t like. 

After you've shampooed, when/how do you brush/comb your hair? Generally, brushing wet hair is bad for the hair. Hair is most delicate when wet. Brushing tends to stretch the strands. Stretching the strands puts wear and tear, which causes damage, which causes splits. 

If you comb your hair, then what type of comb do you use? Does your comb have rough seams and burrs? They catch, scrape and rip hair in nothin' flat! I only use combs that are hand-cut (saw-cut) from one piece of plastic, as opposed to one that is poured into a mold and popped out. There is a DRAMATIC difference in the feel of the hand-cut comb vs. the molded comb. Some people have the best success with finger-combing (literally using their fingers only for coming their hair). 

When you brush or comb your hair, whether it is wet or dry you need to always begin brushing/combing at the ends. Go up about 3-4 inches, brush/comb from there to the ends, move up some more. Continue the process. Never rip through knots. Treat your hair like antique lace. 

What about those existing splits! To trim splits (or to cut hair) you need a good pair of HAIR scissors. You can buy some at Sally's. They come in ALL price ranges. Whatever you do, use these scissors ONLY for hair. Using scissors for anything else will damage the edge, which will cut the hair poorly, which will cause splits. Then, trim the split, above the split. Cut the split perpendicularly to the hair. Think of the capital letter T . The upright part of the letter is the hair, the cross bar is the scissors. 

My personal belief is that an al- over trim (of so many inches) will not take care of a split end problem. Many splits and damage occur above the last inch or so of hair. If your hair is so split that the splits can be seen by a person standing 3 feet away from you, then, yes an overall trim will benefit you. Otherwise, work on how you are handling your hair and trimming off individually damaged hairs. 

If you feel you “have” to get an overall trim, then get a 1/8 to ¼ inch trim. Seriously! That little amount can make a world of difference in how your hair feels. Trust me, I’ve gotten 3 inch trims that feel no better than 1/8 inch trims (except the 3 incher FELT shorter and made me sad). I go to a barber shop to get the really short trims, and it costs next to nothing! I like that! 

When you begin trimming splits, it can seem a daunting task. Many people notice “more splits” when they begin trimming them away. I personally think this is because you are more aware of them and not that there are more. Hang in there.

Where should you trim the splits? I prefer to do it right here in front of my computer, with the lights off, as long as I’m on a page with white back ground. This really helps the splits stand out. My second favorite place is outside in indirect sunlight. I also think my splits are “plumper” if I trim them a few hours after I’ve washed my hair. I think the water stays in the split, plumps it up and makes it easier to see.

If I trim splits for more than a few minutes, I call it a Search and Destroy Mission (S&D). I figure I’m on a mission to get rid of the buggers . . . . so it deserved its own name! LOL

If your ends still feel awful after you’ve been treating them gently, then you might need to use some sort of a clarifier (shampoo, rinse, conditioner). That's another long thread!  LOL There are several ways to do this. 

You also might consider deep conditioning your hair periodically. Hot oil treatments can help, also. There are some in depth conversations on how/when/where/why etc on these topics, so I won't address them right now. 

Moisture Issue: Glycerin -the science bit

The first post on glycerin was getting a little bit too long so I decided to split it up. Please see the first post here which details the moisturising effect of glycerin. 

This post is about the science. The way glycerin works is not fully agreed upon. The two arguments placed forward are 

1. Glycerin penetrates hair - 'Glycerin is known to penetrate the fiber and is unlikely to localize moisture in the vicinity of the surface. '(J Soc Cosmet Chem, pg 39-52, 1985)

2. Glycerin doesn't penetrate hair (to be completely scientific, they are talking about glycerol which is pure glycerin without any water. Dewetting the surface means the glycerol holds onto the water present on the surface) - 'Glycerol is known not to penetrate the hair and it probably quickly dewets the outer surface of the scales.'(Journal of Colloid and Interface Science,pg 329–335, 2004) 

In the diagram below, I decided to show how the additional water comes in. In the event that you mix glycerin with water, the relevant images are the last two on the right. 



In my opinion, glycerin is quite small and likes water. Hair easily lets water through and as we all know, coconut oil too. Therefore I think glycerin does penetrate hair to some extent. 

Glycerin: Good Stuff in a funny form!

There is alot of buzz currently from forum readers which has now filtered down to my inbox. This buzz is about KY Jelly as a hair moisturiser and styling aid. I have to say, it was a little strange that someone thought about putting it in hair (What exactly were you doing to think that up?!!). However, it is not a half-bad idea lol. 

The main components of KY are water and glycerin (glycerine/glycerol) and both of these are good for thirsty hair. Water is of course the ultimate moisturiser but locking it in is the main activity that most naturals want to perfect. Glycerin is a perfect tool for this because  

1. It is hygroscopic - meaning it bonds to and retains water. (Hygro meaning 'moisture' and scopic in this case meaning 'seeking' - therefore moisture seeking) (Griffin, W. C. et al Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists, 1952)
 
2. It is a humectant (because of no 1) and therefore can be used to stabilise the water/moisture content in products (perhaps as in KY) (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists,pg 19, 1958)  

3. It makes hair softer (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists pg 251-263 1989)
 
4. For natural African hair, it prevents premature failure of hair - and therefore, premature breakage of hair when the hair is under stress (combing/stretching/pulling). However if your hair is relaxed, there is no such benefit (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists pg 39-52 1985)  

5. It offers some thermal protection to hair, preventing cracking of the cuticle on exposure to heat (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists pg 141-153, 1998)
 
I am guessing if you were thinking about KY, a cheaper option could be buying some glycerin and mixing it up with water to get a consistency that you like.Some words of caution though is that getting the water to glycerin ratio for your hair is probably easier said than done. There are well reported issues with some users saying it is too sticky or drying (not!!). Glycerin does have to be mixed with water before you use it as if you do happen to get pure glycerol, it will absorb moisture from the air and your hair if applied directly. 

However, provided you add some water to it and you should be ok. It may take some experimenting to get the right level for you.  

10 Tips for Transitioners

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Protein is your friend - Chemically processed hair needs a bit of help in the form of protein treatments. This keeps your hair strong, and also helps with the elasticity as well. Remember you want to minimize breakage and shedding during your transition, so regular protein treatments are key [once monthly is good for starters]. Also remember to deep condition AFTER each protein treatment. 

Low Manipulation Hair Styles - Too much manipulation is like death to your tresses, now is the time to handle your hair with kid gloves. Low mani styles are your friend! Don braids, twists, roller sets, flexi rod sets, braid outs, low tension buns, bantu knot outs, and twist outs. 

Invest in a GOOD detangling comb - As you can see, the theme here is reducing excess breakage. Detangling can wreak havoc on your hair, but you can overcome that with the purchase of a good detangling comb. Preferably a seamless comb [as hair tends to snag on the seams of combs]. 

Silk Pillowcase, Satin Bonnets, Satin Scarves - Are indispensable little "tools" - My favorite is the silk pillow, perfect for those who can't keep on a silk scarf at night.Try to AVOID sleeping on regular cotton pillowcases, as they can cause breakage as well. 

Try to go sans heat for the first 6-8 months - Thermal straightening can have the same effects as a relaxer in a sense that it can break down the protein bonds in your hair. When the protein bonds are weak, your hair will break. This is why you normally get breakage on or near the line of demarcation [the weaker hair and new growth meet at this point]. Thermal straightening can cause the following woes;
- Hair that is too dry from improper straightening techniques
- Protein bonds weaken, then hair breaks at or sometimes even above the line of demarcation
- Heat damaged hair [you don't want to spend all that time transitioning only to have hair that is heat damaged]


Deep Condition Regularly - Keeping your hair conditioned is a regular part of most if not all healthy hair care regimens. But with all of this talk of protein treatments, it is imperative that you keep your hair moisturized. I recommend deep conditioning once weekly WITH heat. 


Shampoo hair in sections - This is a good piece of advice for naturals and transitioners alike, as my hair tends to tangle and knot when I work with sections smaller than four. Relaxed hair is very prone to matting and tangles, so shampooing hair [and conditioning hair] in sections will cut down excess detangling time, and unnecessary tangles and shedding. 

Try to use Sulfate Free Shampoo - This can help retain some of the natural oils that regular shampoo's tend to strip from your hair. For all of you that aren't quite ready for the 'no poo regimens; this is one you should definitely try.
   
Always use a conditioner when detangling - Load your hair up with conditioner, and make sure your hair is saturated with plenty of water. Take your seamless comb, and detangle! [Work in sections of 4] - Detangling should be a breeze if you are careful, and have enough conditioner & water in your hair. Another trick is to detangle under a stream of low pressure water in a shower, bath tub or sink. 

Ease Detangling Woes & Save Your Hair 
Detangling at any point in your hair journey can cause breakage, & splits; but you must take extreme care while transitioning as the line of demarcation is extremely fragile. You can make your own "detangling serum" in a snap out of herbs that can easily be found in your local health food store, or online at places like www.mountainroseherbs.com

Here's my favorite mix:
1 tablespoon Marshmallow Root
1 tablespoon Irish Moss
2 cups water 
1 tablespoon olive oil

Add herbs to boiling water, and stir frequently until the consistency is that of a light gel. Once mixture has reached the desired consistency, strain mixture through cheesecloth, or a fine sieve. Add olive oil to serum, pour into a spray bottle, and use immediately.

How do you use this? Section clean, damp hair into four quadrants, adding the serum to each quadrant. Detangle each section thoroughly, and either braid/twist to keep each section neat, then rinse. 
 

Why this works? Irish Moss is rich in trace minerals which is very beneficial for your hair. Also, Marshmallow Root, & Irish Moss both release a mucilaginous substance that has abundance of minerals and proteins, and themucilage that is released offers an incredible amount of "slip". 

 

Protein 
Protein is one of the key components when it comes to reducing breakage during your transition. Hair that lacks protein is exceptionally weak, and susceptible to breakage; especially around the line of demarcation. Your hair is comprised of mostly what is known as Keratin. Each time you chemically process your hair [relaxers, color treatments etc], it weakens the keratin protein structure, so regular protein treatments are recommend to temporarily strengthen the hair. How often you do protein treatments is determined by assessing the condition of your hair, an assessment is necessary as too much protein can cause breakage as well.
NOTE: 
I also want to point out that thermal straightening, improper blow-drying techniques, and excessive use of heat can also contribute to a weakened protein structure.  

How to assess if your hair is in need of a protein treatment? Is your hair "mushy", or "limp" when wet, does your hair "stretch" a lot when combed? Chances are you need a protein treatment. 

What type of protein treatment should I use? For those that are weary of hard core protein treatments like Aphogee, there are always other options. One of my favorite treatments is a KeraVada Kera1010 It's two parts moisture, to one part protein, and the result is silky, soft, healthy, manageable hair. This product works so well, a deep conditioning treatment is not necessary.

Another favorite of mine is KeraVada Deep Conditioner,  this gives an incredible amount of moisture. This was also a go-to product for me because it corrects issues with elasticity, porosity, lack of protein, and lack of moisture. - This is the perfect product for transitioner's, as most tend to have issues with elasticity, porosity, moisture, and protein deficiencies. 



Moisture Retention
I have already talked about the effects of chemical treatments in relation to the porosity of your hair. This time I want to touch on other products that can also temporarily "fill the gaps" along the hair shaft to ensure moisture retention. 

Cellophane: Cellophane's can also temporarily deposit proteins that bind to the hair shaft; what this does is fills the gaps along the shaft to ensure that moisture loss is kept to a minimum. Not only can cellophane's help temporarily correct porosity issues, but they also help impart an incredible amount of shine as well.
Jazzings, Adore, & Sebastian Colorshine's are all cellophane's that I have used with great results. 


Henna Treatments: Can also work to temporarily correct porosity in the same way that cellophane's work. If you have a relaxer it is highly recommended that you use Body Art Quality Henna, as Henna that isn't BAQ is purported to have chemicals in it that can cause an adverse reaction when applied to relaxed hair.



Moisturizing Products
Once you have corrected issues with porosity, it's time to feed your folicles with products to keep it soft, and moisturized. I tend to like products with added herbs, and essential oils, here are a few of my favorites:

Amla & Olive Heavy Cream - KeraVada Creme Brulee: This is probably one of the BEST moisturizing products I have used to date, and highly popular amongst transitioner's and naturals respectively. It contains a few of my favorite ingredients like Amla, Aloe, Olive Oil, and Brahmi! 

Leave In Conditioner + Water Combo - Take your favorite light leave-in, dilute with a little distilled water, and add it to a spray bottle. For a more softeness, opt for rose water or spring water in lieu of distilled. Rosewater can be found in most Indian Grocery stores in the cooking isle for about $3/32oz

Seal In The Moisture! 
You can use any oil to seal in the moisture from your daily moisturizing treatments. To seal in the moisture apply a light layer of oil to your hair. Oil molecules are a lot larger than the tiny spaces along your hair shaft, so they cannot be absorbed; instead oil acts as a barrier to lock the moisture molecules in. Beware that a build-up of oils can also lock moisture out, so it is imperative that you remove product build-up regularly. Any easy non-abrasive way would be to use Apple Cider Vinegar as a final rinse, this is used by many as a gentle clarifier.